LEARNING A LITTLE MORE from the Ese Eja People

Stories

The Ese Eja People of Infierno: A Unique Community Partnership

After a quick drive past jungle farms lush with papaya and cacao trees, our visitors arrive in the small town of Infierno, Peru. Many travelers from all over the world know the port town as the starting point for their Amazon Tour. But Infierno is much more than a point of departure. Home to the Ese Eja community, an indigenous people of the Amazon, the town has played a crucial role in Rainforest Expeditions’ success since the start of the community partnership.

In celebration of this week’s UN Indigenous Peoples Day, I spoke with Jesús Duran, the Account Manager at Rainforest Expeditions, to get a better sense of Infierno’s decades-long relationship with the lodges. Jesús grew up in Infierno and is committed to the community’s development through sustainable tourism.

A story behind an ecotourism project

When Jesús was a boy, he lived in Infierno — a small town along the Tambopata River — until adolescence. There, and even more, once he moved to nearby Puerto Maldonado city, he saw the discrimination, lack of economic opportunity, and social challenges that the Ese Eja community faced in the region.

At the same time, Jesús began to see tourism come to Tambopata in the early 1990s. The industry seemed to offer a promising alternative to local subsistence fishing and farming, and soon enough, Jesús and his brother both joined the new industry. Armed with his ambition and hard work, he studied tourism at a local school, working his way up from lodge waiter to tour guide to globe-trotting account manager.

Working in travel, he says, «You really get to know yourself and learn to solve any kind of problem.» Today, Jesús travels the world representing Rainforest Expeditions — this small-town boy from the Amazon Rainforest has visited Japan, China, North America, Europe, and more.

Frecuently asked questions to visit the peruvian amazon Tambopata

The Tambopata National Reserve in Madre de Dios, Peru is one of the most biodiverse places on Earth, but only visited by 6% of the tourists that get to Peru.

But despite his cosmopolitan life in Lima today, Jesús hasn’t forgotten his roots in Infierno, the community that raised him and provided the local insights crucial to his success. Luckily, the Native Community of Infierno serves as Rainforest Expeditions’ partner at the Posada Amazonas lodge. In fact, the Ese Eja People own the lodge, largely manage it, and receive most of its profits! Jesús still gets the chance to work with the community on many joint initiatives.

In 1996, the Infierno community and Rainforest Expeditions began their partnership, dedicated to conserving the natural environment and cultural heritage of the Ese Eja, and using ecotourism as a powerful tool to do so. Since then, Jesús has seen firsthand the ways tourism has transformed Infierno. «Before ecotourism, the Ese Eja were very marginalized in the Western World,» he says, «with few resources and little access to education.»

POSADA AMAZONAS

Posada Amazonas Lodge, nestled inside 9.5k hectares of protected forest by the Ese Eja of Infierno Native Community

Thanks to ecotourism, many people have returned to the community

While economic development always brings a mixed bag of changes, Jesús believes ecotourism has been a positive transformation for the community. «Thanks to tourism, many people have returned to the community, because now they can find good opportunities for work there,» he says. «Now the community has a higher quality of life. Young people can study in university, with a different level of education.»

Even more than this economic transformation, Jesús saw firsthand how tourism has changed the way community members relate to the world. «Today Infierno has more resources» and is able to stand up for its legal, cultural, and environmental rights, he explains. «Money is a tool to effect change — they can hire a lawyer, dissent or complain about conditions, even go to Lima to petition the government.»

Legal, cultural, and environmental rights towards sustainable development

Now, the partnership between Rainforest Expeditions and the Native Community of Infierno is growing even more. The Ese Eja were interested in sharing more of their culture, not only their natural surroundings, with international visitors. That led to the creation of cultural activities offered at our lodges, in which guests can spend some hours learning about Ese Eja traditions, artisanry, and food with locals. «I love that the community has decided to share its heritage in this way,» Jesús says. «Visitors’ trips are enriched when they learn about local culture. Without disrupting locals’ day-to-day life, travelers can get to know the Infierno community and its traditions.»

Soon, the partnership will deepen further as the community and lodge collaborate on heritage preservation projects, including a traditional dance initiative and Ese Eja language education for the town’s children. «The goal is the recovery of Ese Eja culture,» Jesús explains, «that their culture is recognized and respected, and that the community feels pride in their own culture.»

The Ese Eja community has contributed so much to Rainforest Expeditions, enriching an ecotourism venture with local knowledge, culture, and appreciation of the environment. «This is what rural community tourism should look like,» Jesús says. «Infierno community members are no longer afraid to say, ‘I am Ese Eja, and I am an entrepreneur.'»

by MerinMcDivitt

NOW READ: Unveiling 5 Cultural Activities in the Peruvian Amazon + Exclusive Bonus with Video

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Fantastic to be deep in the forest surrounded by incredible wildlife with our amazing guide Juan Carlos Yatto, who really knew his stuff! Also his photography skills meant that we could share our experience even better through his telescope using our phone cameras! We learned so much!! He went to extra lengths to find butterflies and moths for us along with so many different birds and monkeys. This was a travel highlight for us as experienced wildlife travellers. We loved our spacious room with no windows and open to more wildlife visitors but after 5 nights the bed could have been a little more comfortable. Luckily we had a second bed to use. Otherwise it was fantastic with hot water showers and fresh drinking water all the time. We were amazed at the variety of food on offer for breakfast, lunch and dinner and couldn’t believe they could have such a wonderful food offering in such a remote location. Even the wine and cocktails were great. I highly recommend spending the extra money and time getting to this location. We stayed at another lodge later which was closer to Puerto Maldonado and there was far less wildlife. Read all

Ederson made the stay at the lodge amazing. I have had many guides around the world and Ederson may be the best I have had across 50 countries. The lodge itself is nice, and has electricity. Food is good, and you really feel immersed in the amazon staying there. Its great that a portion of the money goes back to conservation and research. Noteworthy details: Ederson, the "commander" is the best guide! Read all

Through a travel agency in Lima we booked a 4day/3-night stay at Refugio Amazonas. We were looking for a lodge that was far away from Puerto Maldonado but didn't require almost a day to get there (like TRC), with extensive walking trails and with the principal jungle highlights nearby. We were not disappointed. As we later learned, this is probably the best lodge in the region! Well run, quiet, excellent food, beautifully located in the middle of the forest, everything was "right". Surprisingly there were few mosquitos or bugs. Emperatriz (MP as some call her), our guide, has a keen eye and took us on some unforgettable walks and boat rides, both day and night. The birds at the clay lick were fantastic. The lodge also had evening lectures by young researchers as well as special activities such as collecting night moths and setting a trap camera. We later received videos and photo's of what was found (including a puma!). I can recommend this lodge without reservation. Read all

Abbiamo scelto il Tambopata Research Center perché il nostro obbiettivo era di poter vedere le are da vicino. Ci siamo stati ad inizio dicembre scorso, l'inizio della stagione delle piogge, perciò abbiamo scelto di restare 5 notti/6 giorni, abbiamo messo in conto di perdere delle giornate a causa della pioggia e per la lontananza da Puerto Maldonado, per nostra fortuna durante il nostro soggiorno ha piovuto solo il giorno di partenza proprio quando arrivavamo in aeroporto. Non c'é stato un giorno che non ne abbiamo visto: are di diverse specie e colori e molti altri uccelli e primati, spettacolare l'incontro a pochi centimetri con un formichiere bianco, ma non il giaguaro. Consigliamo di pernottatre almeno 3 notti, il viaggio é molto lungo. Noi eravamo all'aeroporto di Lima già alle 8:00 di mattina e tra un volo in ritardo, uno spostamento in bus di ca. 45 minuti per arrivare al fiume, ed un trasferimento in barca veloce, siamo arrivati al lodge verso le 16:30. All'aeroporto ci ha accolto la nostra guida privata Alfred, che ci ha seguito per tutto il soggiorno, di giorno in giorno abbiamo deciso le escursioni da fare, ed Alfred si é rivelato essere una super guida, un occhio di falco per scoprire anche il più piccolo uccellino, con pazienza é riuscito a farci camminare chilometri nella giungla, ci ha spiegato molto sulla flora e fauna. Bravissimo a far video e foto con i nostri telefoni col suo binocolo e cavalletto che si portava sempre appresso, queste foto sono dei magnifici ricordi. TRC non é un hotel, é un centro di ricerca per le are, in mezzo ad una foresta ed a ore dal primo centro abitato, perciò non avevamo delle grandi aspettative ne sul cibo ne sull'alloggio Read all

This place is a treat!! Incredible flora & fauna, food and service - the staff is quite attentive. Interesting research, with lots of potential. Visiting the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest is a must do! Read all

We had the most amazing time EVER at Refugio Amazonas, and I am so very glad I booked our stay here. Honestly, this is to date probably the best travel experience we have ever had and I will never forget our time in the Amazon here. First of all, the lodge is beautiful. Our room was lovely. The beds were comfy. The bathrooms are large. It is incredible waking up to the sounds of the jungle and falling asleep to the insects at night. We did have some insects in our room, and a rodent, and even a tarantula (non poisonous)! But it was part of the experience. The food was great and they prioritize native and local ingredients. My partner and I are both vegan and they took SUCH good care of us. The food was delicious, and we had ample vegan options every meal. Everything from the first email contacts with Katia to the transfers to the first night info session to the activities-- which I will get to in a second-- was incredible. It is a bit pricey, but everything is included and there is nothing you need to worry about, and it was so worth it. OK now for the best part-- the activities. Holy wow. First of all, we had the best guide EVER-- Juan Carlos. He was amazing. He is a bird expert, knows so much about the animals who live in the rainforest, the insects, the trees, the plant life, it was incredible. He also so clearly cared that everyone in our group had an amazing time. He took so many pictures for us, pointed out so many animals for us, and made sure we all enjoyed every moment. I can’t thank him enough because it made our time here so very special. We went on many activities that were amazing, and we saw so many animals— capybaras, howler monkeys, capuchin monkeys, so many incredible insects, frogs, tarantulas, so many many birds and butterflies. Every activity was amazing but the highlights were the macaw clay lick and the canopy tower. And we were super impressed and happy to hear about their commitment to conservation, protecting the animals, and supporting the native community nearby. There is so much I could say about our stay here but I would recommend a 3 night stay over 2 nights (so you can do more activities), and make sure you read the guides they send via email before you come so you pack correctly and know what to expect and bring--the guide includes everything so that there are no surprises, and we knew exactly what to expect, although our stay exceeded our expectations! I highly, highly recommend staying here, it was magical, it was a once in a life time adventure, and I will never forget it. I also want to shout out the manager of the lodge, I forgot her name, but she was incredible, as well as the service staff at meal times, who were so kind and helpful to point out what was vegan all of the time. I truly hope we can come back some day!! Read all

The lodge was kept very clean, and the staff paid close att to people's needs. It was very easy find activities and the guides were excellent with a genuine intended approach towards sustainability and environment longevity. Read all

A superb stay in a top class Lodge which gave a wonderful insight into the Amazon wildlife. Our guide was Juan Carlos who has incredible knowledge and a lovely sense of humour. The staff in the lodge were so friendly and the meals provided were something to look forward to. A wonderful experience! Read all

I traveled with my mom, who is elderly, and we were a little scared but decided to go for it. Upon arrival, our guide, Christian Herrera, was waiting for us. He was very friendly and had extensive knowledge of the area. The lodge is wonderful, 100% connected to nature. The food is delicious, and everything there is to do near the lodge is incredible. I highly recommend going to the tower at sunset and the macaw clay lick at dawn. Thank you guys for everything, the stay was a dream. Read all

This place totally stole the show! We came to Peru for Machu Picchu, but I think it’s safe to say Refugio Amazonas became the absolute highlight of our trip.​It manages to be as luxurious as a stay in the Amazon can be without feeling like too much hand-holding. The rooms don't have windows, which lets you be super close to nature. Sure, that means moths, but it also means drifting off to the peaceful sound of cicadas and waking up to howler monkeys. I honestly can't remember the last time I had such deep, peaceful sleep.​The food is another major plus; it's exceptionally fresh, especially considering it’s a buffet. You should absolutely check out their menu, too—it’s one of the most thoughtful and best-designed ones I’ve ever seen. Kevin hosted us at dinner most nights, and he was such great company and so mindful of my wife's dietary restrictions. It really adds to the experience when you feel that people genuinely care.​We also took advantage of the exceptional massage here. After a long trip, a massage by Kelly was exactly what the doctor ordered.​But the real star of the show is the activities and the guides. We got incredibly lucky with the very best: Juan Carlos. He was funny, great company, and extraordinarily knowledgeable. All the guides at Refugio Amazonas understand that it's not about just ticking a box but about living the experience. That’s why you might take 30 minutes longer to complete a hike—because you decided to spend some time watching Tamarins playing with each other. Jonathan was another guide we had a wonderful, very knowledgeable, and fun time with. We honestly just didn't want to leave and wish we could have stayed longer. Read all

We just finished three weeks in Peru and without a doubt Refugio Amazonas lodge was a real highlight of the trip. You need to know there is NO AC but honestly you don't need it at night in October, There's a ceiling fan and the bed was super comfortable with netting and additional fan within the bed area. The sounds of the jungle at night and Howler monkeys in the morning was great experience. The staff was excellent with a special mention for Paul our guide. He is an excellent Birder as well and can't thank him enough for over 110 new bird species during our four days there. The early morning Macaw clay lick experience with the boat ride in the dark was very cool. The buffet style meals were ok, make sure you bring shoes for mud and extra to walk around with in the lodge. Refugio provides boots for water on trails. See photos Read all

This place totally stole the show! We came to Peru for Machu Picchu, but I think it’s safe to say Refugio Amazonas became the absolute highlight of our trip.​It manages to be as luxurious as a stay in the Amazon can be without feeling like too much hand-holding. The rooms don't have windows, which lets you be super close to nature. Sure, that means moths, but it also means drifting off to the peaceful sound of cicadas and waking up to howler monkeys. I honestly can't remember the last time I had such deep, peaceful sleep.​The food is another major plus; it's exceptionally fresh, especially considering it’s a buffet. You should absolutely check out their menu, too—it’s one of the most thoughtful and best-designed ones I’ve ever seen. Kevin hosted us at dinner most nights, and he was such great company and so mindful of my wife's dietary restrictions. It really adds to the experience when you feel that people genuinely care.​We also took advantage of the exceptional massage here. After a long trip, a massage by Kelly was exactly what the doctor ordered.​But the real star of the show is the activities and the guides. We got incredibly lucky with the very best: Juan Carlos. He was funny, great company, and extraordinarily knowledgeable. All the guides at Refugio Amazonas understand that it's not about just ticking a box but about living the experience. That’s why you might take 30 minutes longer to complete a hike—because you decided to spend some time watching Tamarins playing with each other. Jonathan was another guide we had a wonderful, very knowledgeable, and fun time with. We honestly just didn't want to leave and wish we could have stayed longer. Nearby activities: We did the macaw clay lick, mammal clay lick, night walk, medicinal trail, canopy walk twice, and the oxbow lake. Safety: As safe as you can be in the Amazon rainforest Food & drinks: Excellent varied buffet lunches and dinners every day. Read all

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