Stories

One of the most remote lodges in Peru, the Tambopata Research Center

White capuchin monkey White-fronted Capuchin at Tambopata Research Center

I was floored by the Amazon before I’d even got on the boat. Fluttering around the dock was an enormous cloud of butterflies of every shape and colour. They were everywhere. I’d never experienced so many of them in one place. The mineral-rich mud of the river attracts them in flocks, and I was to discover that it is entirely normal to come across fairytale scenes such as this one when walking through the jungle. The guides were completely unfazed. Only when one of them called me over to the boat did I realise how long I’d been staring.

The Tambopata Research Center (TRC) is only accessible by a long ride upriver, taking you deep into the Amazon Jungle. It is one of the most remote lodges in Peru, and the only one actually within the Tambopata National Reserve – the others are located in the ‘buffer zone’ on the fringes. Even from the top of the TRC’s observation tower, you can look to the horizon in every direction and not see a single sign of human habitation. The boat journey is long (about 2 and half hours), but it’s also one of the highlights, as this is where you have the best chance of seeing the jungle’s more elusive wildlife. If you have the privilege of seeing a jaguar on your trip, as 40% of visitors do between July and September, it will be whilst on the boat. The water and the clay deposits on the banks attract all kinds of wildlife, from monkeys to macaws. Within 20 minutes of getting on the boat, we’d stopped to watch a capybara on the shore – it was so close that you could even get a decent video of it on your phone.

Boat drive to TRC & capybara on the shore

Upon arrival at the lodge, I was greeted with a cold drink, a face towel, and some plantain chips to enjoy whilst I was briefed on the features of the lodge. Then I was shown to my room, which had one wall completely open to the jungle. The guides called this ‘the Big Window’. ‘Don’t be afraid of the Big Window’ they said, since the animals have no interest in climbing into your room, and the bed is protected by a sturdy mosquito net. No sooner had the guide left than I watched an enormous morpho butterfly the size of a small bird drift erratically past the Big Window. It’s these sorts of sporadic encounters with wildlife that make staying in a lodge so special, and they happen all the time. Once, when walking to lunch, I watched a family of howler monkeys swing through the trees just above my head. Other times I’d watch hummingbirds’ flit busily through the garden, or curious macaws sitting on the roofbeams whilst eyeing up the bread rolls at the buffet.

TRC lodge and rooms Tambopata Research Center lodge & rooms

Each morning and every evening, I went out with my guide to explore the forest. ‘What do you want to see?’ he’d ask, and my answer would determine the route. There’s a catalogue of trips in the lobby that you can flick through for inspiration, including climbing the observation tower to watch the canopy birds or enjoying a sundowner on an evening boat ride. If you’re interested in birds, then the clay lick is well worth a visit. These are riverside cliffs where mixed flocks of parrots, macaws and parakeets come to lick the clay to help them digest the unripe fruits they consume. Some days there will be hundreds of parrots lining the cliff like a very noisy tapestry. The guides all have telescopes, so you can observe them close-up from the opposite bank.

Macaw Clay lick and Canopy tower Canopy Tower & Macaw Clay Lick

If you’re interested in seeing monkeys, then you’re spoiled for choice. Eight unique species live along the Tambopata River, which are currently being studied by the researchers at the lodge to observe their behaviour. The 8Primates project is collecting the calls of dusky titi monkeys, squirrel monkeys, brown capuchins, white-face capuchins, howler monkeys, spider monkeys, night monkeys and saddleback tamarins so that they can track them as they move through the forest. You have the option of going out with the scientists on one of their audio-collecting walks, where you can capture monkey calls with a parabolic mic. This is a fantastic way to learn about the rainforest. They will even send you the clips you recorded afterwards via email. I managed to spot at least five of the eight species during my three-day stay at the lodge.

Tambopata research Center - 8 primates The 8 Primates Project at the TRC

My most spectacular moment in the Amazon came from one of the other research projects, one I didn’t expect to be so inspiring – collecting moths. I went out one evening with a researcher named Gabriel, armed with a backpack full of jam jars and specimen tubes. Gabriel took me to a moth trap consisting of a powerful light next to a white sheet. On the sheet, there were thousands of moths of every shape and size. Some were bone white with a metallic gold lining on their wings like fine crockery, whilst others were yellow and stripy trying their best to imitate bumble bees. They ranged in size from ‘microlepidotera’ that could stand on a pinhead, to enormous hawk moths that would be comfortable on your actual head. The ones we were looking for were about the size of a one-pound coin. Gabriel is currently trying to find new types of tiger moths. Whilst we filled the jars, he took the time to tell me about the different species, and what it’s like studying in the Amazon for eight months of the year, including the seasons where the whole forest floor is submerged. The next day when I visited the research station, Gabriel excitedly told me that we’d discovered a new species! He had its DNA ‘barcoded’ and sent it to be analysed by the researchers in Lima, who responded positively. I was elated! It felt incredible to be at the forefront of science and to have found something that perhaps no one had ever seen before. This is the fourth new species that Gabriel has found, and one of many that have been discovered by the team at the TRC.

hawk moth - Discovering New Species Hawk Moth in the Light Trap – Discovering New Species project

On my final night at the lodge, I signed up for the Sunset Cruise, which is included in the stay. I bought myself a bottle of beer, which was put in a cooler so I could enjoy it cold on the boat. We set off before dinner and explored the banks, stopping to watch a family of squirrel monkeys jump through the treetops. We spotted caimans and hawks and turkeys and macaws, then disembarked on a pebble beach to watch the sun go down over the treetops.

Written by Josh McMinn

Thanks to Llama Travel

What our guest say
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AMJNZ November 2025

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Ronit Bhat October 2025

Fantastic to be deep in the forest surrounded by incredible wildlife with our amazing guide Juan Carlos Yatto, who really knew his stuff! Also his photography skills meant that we could share our experience even better through his telescope using our phone cameras! We learned so much!! He went to extra lengths to find butterflies and moths for us along with so many different birds and monkeys. This was a travel highlight for us as experienced wildlife travellers. We loved our spacious room with no windows and open to more wildlife visitors but after 5 nights the bed could have been a little more comfortable. Luckily we had a second bed to use. Otherwise it was fantastic with hot water showers and fresh drinking water all the time. We were amazed at the variety of food on offer for breakfast, lunch and dinner and couldn’t believe they could have such a wonderful food offering in such a remote location. Even the wine and cocktails were great. I highly recommend spending the extra money and time getting to this location. We stayed at another lodge later which was closer to Puerto Maldonado and there was far less wildlife. Read all

Ederson made the stay at the lodge amazing. I have had many guides around the world and Ederson may be the best I have had across 50 countries. The lodge itself is nice, and has electricity. Food is good, and you really feel immersed in the amazon staying there. Its great that a portion of the money goes back to conservation and research. Noteworthy details: Ederson, the "commander" is the best guide! Read all

Through a travel agency in Lima we booked a 4day/3-night stay at Refugio Amazonas. We were looking for a lodge that was far away from Puerto Maldonado but didn't require almost a day to get there (like TRC), with extensive walking trails and with the principal jungle highlights nearby. We were not disappointed. As we later learned, this is probably the best lodge in the region! Well run, quiet, excellent food, beautifully located in the middle of the forest, everything was "right". Surprisingly there were few mosquitos or bugs. Emperatriz (MP as some call her), our guide, has a keen eye and took us on some unforgettable walks and boat rides, both day and night. The birds at the clay lick were fantastic. The lodge also had evening lectures by young researchers as well as special activities such as collecting night moths and setting a trap camera. We later received videos and photo's of what was found (including a puma!). I can recommend this lodge without reservation. Read all

Abbiamo scelto il Tambopata Research Center perché il nostro obbiettivo era di poter vedere le are da vicino. Ci siamo stati ad inizio dicembre scorso, l'inizio della stagione delle piogge, perciò abbiamo scelto di restare 5 notti/6 giorni, abbiamo messo in conto di perdere delle giornate a causa della pioggia e per la lontananza da Puerto Maldonado, per nostra fortuna durante il nostro soggiorno ha piovuto solo il giorno di partenza proprio quando arrivavamo in aeroporto. Non c'é stato un giorno che non ne abbiamo visto: are di diverse specie e colori e molti altri uccelli e primati, spettacolare l'incontro a pochi centimetri con un formichiere bianco, ma non il giaguaro. Consigliamo di pernottatre almeno 3 notti, il viaggio é molto lungo. Noi eravamo all'aeroporto di Lima già alle 8:00 di mattina e tra un volo in ritardo, uno spostamento in bus di ca. 45 minuti per arrivare al fiume, ed un trasferimento in barca veloce, siamo arrivati al lodge verso le 16:30. All'aeroporto ci ha accolto la nostra guida privata Alfred, che ci ha seguito per tutto il soggiorno, di giorno in giorno abbiamo deciso le escursioni da fare, ed Alfred si é rivelato essere una super guida, un occhio di falco per scoprire anche il più piccolo uccellino, con pazienza é riuscito a farci camminare chilometri nella giungla, ci ha spiegato molto sulla flora e fauna. Bravissimo a far video e foto con i nostri telefoni col suo binocolo e cavalletto che si portava sempre appresso, queste foto sono dei magnifici ricordi. TRC non é un hotel, é un centro di ricerca per le are, in mezzo ad una foresta ed a ore dal primo centro abitato, perciò non avevamo delle grandi aspettative ne sul cibo ne sull'alloggio Read all

This place is a treat!! Incredible flora & fauna, food and service - the staff is quite attentive. Interesting research, with lots of potential. Visiting the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest is a must do! Read all

We had the most amazing time EVER at Refugio Amazonas, and I am so very glad I booked our stay here. Honestly, this is to date probably the best travel experience we have ever had and I will never forget our time in the Amazon here. First of all, the lodge is beautiful. Our room was lovely. The beds were comfy. The bathrooms are large. It is incredible waking up to the sounds of the jungle and falling asleep to the insects at night. We did have some insects in our room, and a rodent, and even a tarantula (non poisonous)! But it was part of the experience. The food was great and they prioritize native and local ingredients. My partner and I are both vegan and they took SUCH good care of us. The food was delicious, and we had ample vegan options every meal. Everything from the first email contacts with Katia to the transfers to the first night info session to the activities-- which I will get to in a second-- was incredible. It is a bit pricey, but everything is included and there is nothing you need to worry about, and it was so worth it. OK now for the best part-- the activities. Holy wow. First of all, we had the best guide EVER-- Juan Carlos. He was amazing. He is a bird expert, knows so much about the animals who live in the rainforest, the insects, the trees, the plant life, it was incredible. He also so clearly cared that everyone in our group had an amazing time. He took so many pictures for us, pointed out so many animals for us, and made sure we all enjoyed every moment. I can’t thank him enough because it made our time here so very special. We went on many activities that were amazing, and we saw so many animals— capybaras, howler monkeys, capuchin monkeys, so many incredible insects, frogs, tarantulas, so many many birds and butterflies. Every activity was amazing but the highlights were the macaw clay lick and the canopy tower. And we were super impressed and happy to hear about their commitment to conservation, protecting the animals, and supporting the native community nearby. There is so much I could say about our stay here but I would recommend a 3 night stay over 2 nights (so you can do more activities), and make sure you read the guides they send via email before you come so you pack correctly and know what to expect and bring--the guide includes everything so that there are no surprises, and we knew exactly what to expect, although our stay exceeded our expectations! I highly, highly recommend staying here, it was magical, it was a once in a life time adventure, and I will never forget it. I also want to shout out the manager of the lodge, I forgot her name, but she was incredible, as well as the service staff at meal times, who were so kind and helpful to point out what was vegan all of the time. I truly hope we can come back some day!! Read all

The lodge was kept very clean, and the staff paid close att to people's needs. It was very easy find activities and the guides were excellent with a genuine intended approach towards sustainability and environment longevity. Read all

A superb stay in a top class Lodge which gave a wonderful insight into the Amazon wildlife. Our guide was Juan Carlos who has incredible knowledge and a lovely sense of humour. The staff in the lodge were so friendly and the meals provided were something to look forward to. A wonderful experience! Read all

I traveled with my mom, who is elderly, and we were a little scared but decided to go for it. Upon arrival, our guide, Christian Herrera, was waiting for us. He was very friendly and had extensive knowledge of the area. The lodge is wonderful, 100% connected to nature. The food is delicious, and everything there is to do near the lodge is incredible. I highly recommend going to the tower at sunset and the macaw clay lick at dawn. Thank you guys for everything, the stay was a dream. Read all

This place totally stole the show! We came to Peru for Machu Picchu, but I think it’s safe to say Refugio Amazonas became the absolute highlight of our trip.It manages to be as luxurious as a stay in the Amazon can be without feeling like too much hand-holding. The rooms don't have windows, which lets you be super close to nature. Sure, that means moths, but it also means drifting off to the peaceful sound of cicadas and waking up to howler monkeys. I honestly can't remember the last time I had such deep, peaceful sleep.The food is another major plus; it's exceptionally fresh, especially considering it’s a buffet. You should absolutely check out their menu, too—it’s one of the most thoughtful and best-designed ones I’ve ever seen. Kevin hosted us at dinner most nights, and he was such great company and so mindful of my wife's dietary restrictions. It really adds to the experience when you feel that people genuinely care.We also took advantage of the exceptional massage here. After a long trip, a massage by Kelly was exactly what the doctor ordered.But the real star of the show is the activities and the guides. We got incredibly lucky with the very best: Juan Carlos. He was funny, great company, and extraordinarily knowledgeable. All the guides at Refugio Amazonas understand that it's not about just ticking a box but about living the experience. That’s why you might take 30 minutes longer to complete a hike—because you decided to spend some time watching Tamarins playing with each other. Jonathan was another guide we had a wonderful, very knowledgeable, and fun time with. We honestly just didn't want to leave and wish we could have stayed longer. Read all

We just finished three weeks in Peru and without a doubt Refugio Amazonas lodge was a real highlight of the trip. You need to know there is NO AC but honestly you don't need it at night in October, There's a ceiling fan and the bed was super comfortable with netting and additional fan within the bed area. The sounds of the jungle at night and Howler monkeys in the morning was great experience. The staff was excellent with a special mention for Paul our guide. He is an excellent Birder as well and can't thank him enough for over 110 new bird species during our four days there. The early morning Macaw clay lick experience with the boat ride in the dark was very cool. The buffet style meals were ok, make sure you bring shoes for mud and extra to walk around with in the lodge. Refugio provides boots for water on trails. See photos Read all

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