A UNIQUE ENCOUNTER with a Jaguar

Stories

A face to face encounter with a jaguar

The first time I put my feet on Madre de Dios was during the rainy season of 2014, to be precise on January 3rd.

 

The goal of that trip was to collect information about the “Castaña” (Brazil nut tree) production in the property of Refugio Amazonas Lodge, start my thesis to get the degree and also, try to graft mature Brazil nut trees with buds of productive trees from other parts of the region in order to enhance the production.

 

To start my work and accomplish the goals I needed to find “Castaña” buds from productive trees. Talking with people in the city I met a “castañero” known as Cachimba, a 65-year-old man who offered his trees so that I could prune the buds. His Brazil nut concession land was close by Valencia Lake. This lake is an oxbow lake that was part of the Madre de Dios River many years before.

Experience a Brazil Nut Trail and Camp at Rainforest Expeditions Lodges

The day I arrived everything ran perfectly; weather in the best conditions, no rain but cloudy. The tree that the worker showed me to climb for collecting the buds was only 10 minutes walking from the base camp. When I arrive at the base of the tree, I felt like being in the Avatar movie. That Brazil nut tree was considered the most productive of the land and with a longevity of around 1200 years.

 

This intimidating ancient tree was 55 meters tall, supporting a 30 meters wide crown. I spent the whole day climbing, collecting the buds, moving between branches. The most intense and gratifying day of work in my life. Then, with the buds in my hands, I only had between 3 and 5 days to graft them in the trees in Refugio Amazonas Lodge.

Brazil Nut Tree

Brazil Nut Tree – Photo by Varun Swamy

As soon I got back to Refugio, the buds were installed and the “castañeros” of the land arrived. Three men with their upper bodies armed as soldiers were collecting all the coconut-like fruits of the “Castaña”. Using machetes as blades, they opened the hard shells to get the seeds, in only three hits. My work was to count how many fruits were produced in each tree.

 

First, I helped them find the fruits on the ground by the tree base and stack them on a small hill. Some trees have 50 fruits but there could have up to 2,000 fruits. When they started breaking the fruits I sat down close to them and counted how many they opened.

brazil nut camp

 

Brazil nuts on a trail

 

One of the days I was counting, very concentrated, all the fruits, so that I wouldn’t miss a single one and be able to get the more precise results in my thesis.

 

Suddenly, they were looking at me with extremely afraid faces. Their faces made me freak out; they were acting as if they were seeing a ghost. I started to look at my body because I thought I had a viper on me but I didn’t, so I realized they were looking behind me.

 

I turned back and saw 8 meters away from me, a female Jaguar. She was curious about the sounds of the machetes hitting the fruits. Between her front legs was a cub, a small one, probably 2 or 3 months old. That scene lasted around 10 more long seconds, no one was moving, we were paralyzed, probably without knowing if we were in a dream (encounter with a jaguar).

Then, the jaguar turned to her left and started walking into the density of the forest. The cub took two more seconds to realize his mom was gone, made two jumps out, and disappeared. After that moment I spent two years without looking at a single Jaguar.

Jaguar in the rainforest

Jaguar (Panthera Onca) By Paul Bertner

Jaguars are solitary cats, they don’t live in herds like lions. Is easy to spot them nearby the river banks during boat trips. When you travel to the Amazon, in Tambopata, you have up to a 35% chance to spot one. The territories of females are associated with the surroundings of the rivers where they can find their favorite prey: capybaras.

Learn How To Identify a Jaguar in the Amazon Rainforest Here

Males use bigger territories, up to 300 square kilometers, and can get deep inside the forest for long periods following white-lipped peccary’s herds or Tapir trails. If you saw more than one jaguar together could be a female whit its cups, maybe a couple of young brothers that are still together before taking their own way, or maybe a male and a female during the breeding season.

The incredible thing about this story is the proximity that we can have with these activities. Within everyone’s reach…The Brazil Nut Trail and even the Jungle Jaguar Search. Definitely unforgettable experiences.

by Juan Diego

Do not wait any longer for a tour of the Amazon Rainforest!

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Fantastic to be deep in the forest surrounded by incredible wildlife with our amazing guide Juan Carlos Yatto, who really knew his stuff! Also his photography skills meant that we could share our experience even better through his telescope using our phone cameras! We learned so much!! He went to extra lengths to find butterflies and moths for us along with so many different birds and monkeys. This was a travel highlight for us as experienced wildlife travellers. We loved our spacious room with no windows and open to more wildlife visitors but after 5 nights the bed could have been a little more comfortable. Luckily we had a second bed to use. Otherwise it was fantastic with hot water showers and fresh drinking water all the time. We were amazed at the variety of food on offer for breakfast, lunch and dinner and couldn’t believe they could have such a wonderful food offering in such a remote location. Even the wine and cocktails were great. I highly recommend spending the extra money and time getting to this location. We stayed at another lodge later which was closer to Puerto Maldonado and there was far less wildlife. Read all

Ederson made the stay at the lodge amazing. I have had many guides around the world and Ederson may be the best I have had across 50 countries. The lodge itself is nice, and has electricity. Food is good, and you really feel immersed in the amazon staying there. Its great that a portion of the money goes back to conservation and research. Noteworthy details: Ederson, the "commander" is the best guide! Read all

Through a travel agency in Lima we booked a 4day/3-night stay at Refugio Amazonas. We were looking for a lodge that was far away from Puerto Maldonado but didn't require almost a day to get there (like TRC), with extensive walking trails and with the principal jungle highlights nearby. We were not disappointed. As we later learned, this is probably the best lodge in the region! Well run, quiet, excellent food, beautifully located in the middle of the forest, everything was "right". Surprisingly there were few mosquitos or bugs. Emperatriz (MP as some call her), our guide, has a keen eye and took us on some unforgettable walks and boat rides, both day and night. The birds at the clay lick were fantastic. The lodge also had evening lectures by young researchers as well as special activities such as collecting night moths and setting a trap camera. We later received videos and photo's of what was found (including a puma!). I can recommend this lodge without reservation. Read all

Abbiamo scelto il Tambopata Research Center perché il nostro obbiettivo era di poter vedere le are da vicino. Ci siamo stati ad inizio dicembre scorso, l'inizio della stagione delle piogge, perciò abbiamo scelto di restare 5 notti/6 giorni, abbiamo messo in conto di perdere delle giornate a causa della pioggia e per la lontananza da Puerto Maldonado, per nostra fortuna durante il nostro soggiorno ha piovuto solo il giorno di partenza proprio quando arrivavamo in aeroporto. Non c'é stato un giorno che non ne abbiamo visto: are di diverse specie e colori e molti altri uccelli e primati, spettacolare l'incontro a pochi centimetri con un formichiere bianco, ma non il giaguaro. Consigliamo di pernottatre almeno 3 notti, il viaggio é molto lungo. Noi eravamo all'aeroporto di Lima già alle 8:00 di mattina e tra un volo in ritardo, uno spostamento in bus di ca. 45 minuti per arrivare al fiume, ed un trasferimento in barca veloce, siamo arrivati al lodge verso le 16:30. All'aeroporto ci ha accolto la nostra guida privata Alfred, che ci ha seguito per tutto il soggiorno, di giorno in giorno abbiamo deciso le escursioni da fare, ed Alfred si é rivelato essere una super guida, un occhio di falco per scoprire anche il più piccolo uccellino, con pazienza é riuscito a farci camminare chilometri nella giungla, ci ha spiegato molto sulla flora e fauna. Bravissimo a far video e foto con i nostri telefoni col suo binocolo e cavalletto che si portava sempre appresso, queste foto sono dei magnifici ricordi. TRC non é un hotel, é un centro di ricerca per le are, in mezzo ad una foresta ed a ore dal primo centro abitato, perciò non avevamo delle grandi aspettative ne sul cibo ne sull'alloggio Read all

This place is a treat!! Incredible flora & fauna, food and service - the staff is quite attentive. Interesting research, with lots of potential. Visiting the Peruvian Amazon Rainforest is a must do! Read all

We had the most amazing time EVER at Refugio Amazonas, and I am so very glad I booked our stay here. Honestly, this is to date probably the best travel experience we have ever had and I will never forget our time in the Amazon here. First of all, the lodge is beautiful. Our room was lovely. The beds were comfy. The bathrooms are large. It is incredible waking up to the sounds of the jungle and falling asleep to the insects at night. We did have some insects in our room, and a rodent, and even a tarantula (non poisonous)! But it was part of the experience. The food was great and they prioritize native and local ingredients. My partner and I are both vegan and they took SUCH good care of us. The food was delicious, and we had ample vegan options every meal. Everything from the first email contacts with Katia to the transfers to the first night info session to the activities-- which I will get to in a second-- was incredible. It is a bit pricey, but everything is included and there is nothing you need to worry about, and it was so worth it. OK now for the best part-- the activities. Holy wow. First of all, we had the best guide EVER-- Juan Carlos. He was amazing. He is a bird expert, knows so much about the animals who live in the rainforest, the insects, the trees, the plant life, it was incredible. He also so clearly cared that everyone in our group had an amazing time. He took so many pictures for us, pointed out so many animals for us, and made sure we all enjoyed every moment. I can’t thank him enough because it made our time here so very special. We went on many activities that were amazing, and we saw so many animals— capybaras, howler monkeys, capuchin monkeys, so many incredible insects, frogs, tarantulas, so many many birds and butterflies. Every activity was amazing but the highlights were the macaw clay lick and the canopy tower. And we were super impressed and happy to hear about their commitment to conservation, protecting the animals, and supporting the native community nearby. There is so much I could say about our stay here but I would recommend a 3 night stay over 2 nights (so you can do more activities), and make sure you read the guides they send via email before you come so you pack correctly and know what to expect and bring--the guide includes everything so that there are no surprises, and we knew exactly what to expect, although our stay exceeded our expectations! I highly, highly recommend staying here, it was magical, it was a once in a life time adventure, and I will never forget it. I also want to shout out the manager of the lodge, I forgot her name, but she was incredible, as well as the service staff at meal times, who were so kind and helpful to point out what was vegan all of the time. I truly hope we can come back some day!! Read all

The lodge was kept very clean, and the staff paid close att to people's needs. It was very easy find activities and the guides were excellent with a genuine intended approach towards sustainability and environment longevity. Read all

A superb stay in a top class Lodge which gave a wonderful insight into the Amazon wildlife. Our guide was Juan Carlos who has incredible knowledge and a lovely sense of humour. The staff in the lodge were so friendly and the meals provided were something to look forward to. A wonderful experience! Read all

I traveled with my mom, who is elderly, and we were a little scared but decided to go for it. Upon arrival, our guide, Christian Herrera, was waiting for us. He was very friendly and had extensive knowledge of the area. The lodge is wonderful, 100% connected to nature. The food is delicious, and everything there is to do near the lodge is incredible. I highly recommend going to the tower at sunset and the macaw clay lick at dawn. Thank you guys for everything, the stay was a dream. Read all

This place totally stole the show! We came to Peru for Machu Picchu, but I think it’s safe to say Refugio Amazonas became the absolute highlight of our trip.​It manages to be as luxurious as a stay in the Amazon can be without feeling like too much hand-holding. The rooms don't have windows, which lets you be super close to nature. Sure, that means moths, but it also means drifting off to the peaceful sound of cicadas and waking up to howler monkeys. I honestly can't remember the last time I had such deep, peaceful sleep.​The food is another major plus; it's exceptionally fresh, especially considering it’s a buffet. You should absolutely check out their menu, too—it’s one of the most thoughtful and best-designed ones I’ve ever seen. Kevin hosted us at dinner most nights, and he was such great company and so mindful of my wife's dietary restrictions. It really adds to the experience when you feel that people genuinely care.​We also took advantage of the exceptional massage here. After a long trip, a massage by Kelly was exactly what the doctor ordered.​But the real star of the show is the activities and the guides. We got incredibly lucky with the very best: Juan Carlos. He was funny, great company, and extraordinarily knowledgeable. All the guides at Refugio Amazonas understand that it's not about just ticking a box but about living the experience. That’s why you might take 30 minutes longer to complete a hike—because you decided to spend some time watching Tamarins playing with each other. Jonathan was another guide we had a wonderful, very knowledgeable, and fun time with. We honestly just didn't want to leave and wish we could have stayed longer. Read all

We just finished three weeks in Peru and without a doubt Refugio Amazonas lodge was a real highlight of the trip. You need to know there is NO AC but honestly you don't need it at night in October, There's a ceiling fan and the bed was super comfortable with netting and additional fan within the bed area. The sounds of the jungle at night and Howler monkeys in the morning was great experience. The staff was excellent with a special mention for Paul our guide. He is an excellent Birder as well and can't thank him enough for over 110 new bird species during our four days there. The early morning Macaw clay lick experience with the boat ride in the dark was very cool. The buffet style meals were ok, make sure you bring shoes for mud and extra to walk around with in the lodge. Refugio provides boots for water on trails. See photos Read all

This place totally stole the show! We came to Peru for Machu Picchu, but I think it’s safe to say Refugio Amazonas became the absolute highlight of our trip.​It manages to be as luxurious as a stay in the Amazon can be without feeling like too much hand-holding. The rooms don't have windows, which lets you be super close to nature. Sure, that means moths, but it also means drifting off to the peaceful sound of cicadas and waking up to howler monkeys. I honestly can't remember the last time I had such deep, peaceful sleep.​The food is another major plus; it's exceptionally fresh, especially considering it’s a buffet. You should absolutely check out their menu, too—it’s one of the most thoughtful and best-designed ones I’ve ever seen. Kevin hosted us at dinner most nights, and he was such great company and so mindful of my wife's dietary restrictions. It really adds to the experience when you feel that people genuinely care.​We also took advantage of the exceptional massage here. After a long trip, a massage by Kelly was exactly what the doctor ordered.​But the real star of the show is the activities and the guides. We got incredibly lucky with the very best: Juan Carlos. He was funny, great company, and extraordinarily knowledgeable. All the guides at Refugio Amazonas understand that it's not about just ticking a box but about living the experience. That’s why you might take 30 minutes longer to complete a hike—because you decided to spend some time watching Tamarins playing with each other. Jonathan was another guide we had a wonderful, very knowledgeable, and fun time with. We honestly just didn't want to leave and wish we could have stayed longer. Nearby activities: We did the macaw clay lick, mammal clay lick, night walk, medicinal trail, canopy walk twice, and the oxbow lake. Safety: As safe as you can be in the Amazon rainforest Food & drinks: Excellent varied buffet lunches and dinners every day. Read all

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